On Chesil Beach: The Dorset Coast
There is so much to explore along the Jurassic Coast in Dorset from the seaside towns of Weymouth to Lyme Regis as well as natural wonders of Chesil Beach and Lulworth Cove.
A beautiful stretch of coastline in Dorset, Chesil Beach sits on the Jurassic Coast nestled between the seaside villages of Portland, Abbotsbury, and West Bay. In literary culture, Chesil Beach was the inspiration behind Ian McEwan’s novella and film of the same name: On Chesil Beach. Set in the 1960s, the film tells a story of a newlywed couple on their honeymoon on Chesil Beach who eventually part ways. The movie was filmed on location in Chesil Beach with some cinematic scenes of the Dorset Coast. Likewise, J. Meade Falkner’s Moonfleet, a novel about shipwreck adventure takes place right on Chesil Beach.
Chesil Beach & Fleet Lagoon
Unlike its bustling with its golden sands and pastel beach huts, Chesil Beach is rugged and wild with an 18-mile stretch of shingle barrier. Behind Chesil Beach is a large saline body of water, Fleet Lagoon, which is a calm brackish lagoon with a few oyster farms and small fishing boats. Situated on the clifftop on the South West Coastal Path is the fabulous Moonfleet Manor, our “home away from home” for a few nights. The entire area of Chesil Beach is undeveloped with a few picturesque villages and seaside cafes. All my years of living in the U.K, I have never considered holidaying in Dorset. It’s a stunning coastline and reminds me of the rugged coast of Marin County in northern California especially on a sunny day.
Coastal Cafes in Dorset
Just like northern California, there is no shortage of seaside cafes specialising in fresh seafood along the Dorset Coast. You cannot have a beach holiday without fresh seafood.
The Crab House Cafe is a wonderful spot for some fresh seafood. The decor is rustic with wooden tables under the covered areas. On our visit, the sun was shining brilliantly with a cool gentle sea breeze. Fresh oysters are directly from the cafe’s own oyster bed. With the gorgeous scenery, we felt like we were back in California eating oysters at Hog Island in Tomales Bay.
Kenz ordered fresh sea bass and curried sprats as starters. Although it was messy business, I ordered Crab House Cafe’s famous crustacean, namely crab cooked Chinese-style. Served on a long wooden board along with all the tools, pricks, and a cracker to extract meat from the crab. A bit of work, but it was so worth it! We enjoyed the sea views, crisp Dorset cider, and tasty food over good vibes at this excellent crab shack.
Crab House Cafe, Ferryman’s Way, Portland Road, Wyke Regis, Weymouth, DT4 9U
On the western side of Chesil Beach over at Burton Bradstock is the coastal cool Hive Beach Cafe. It was about 23C when we visited this beach side cafe on the iconic Jurassic Coast. Even with the expansive outdoor seating, the lunch-time queue was snaking down all the way down to the beach. With toddlers in tow, we took no chances on the “first-come, first served” policy, so we were sure to make a reservation at the Top Marquee. The lovely waitress gave us the best seats in the house: the corner table with perfect views of the English Channel.
What’s on the menu? Seafood of course! From seafood nibble board to fresh fish of plaice, monkfish, sea bass, and the classic fish & chip, it’s a seafood lover’s haven. We ordered the sharing platter, fish & chip, and crayfish sandwiches to share amongst our group. The food was top-notch and the atmosphere was lively.
Hive Beach Cafe, Beach Road, Burton Bradstock, Dorset, DT6 4RF
Summer Fun at Hive Beach
After a light lunch, we were ready to hit the sandy beach with our buckets and shades. Hive Beach is completely unspoilt with lovely views of sandstone cliffs in the backdrop. Just like California, the ocean was refreshingly chilly but we didn’t mind dipping our toes in the water. My Somerset-born friend had other plans and went in for a swim!
Hive Beach and the surrounding area is run by the National Trust. Therefore, do not expect to find lounge chairs for hire or funfair type entertainment. People come to Hive Beach for its natural surroundings and gorgeous clifftop walks. Be sure to bring suncream, beach mat, and sun hat and enjoy the beauty of the Jurassic Coast.
