A Country Escape: Lower Slaughter, Cotswolds
Rolling hills, honey-hued cottages, bucolic scenery, the charming village of Lower Slaughter in the Cotwolds is as quintessential English countryside as it gets.
Needing to get out of London, we did a mid-week escape to the Cotswolds for some fresh country air and a break from the daily grind. Designated as “An Area of Oustanding Natural Beauty,” the Cotswolds covers nearly 800 square miles, stretching across seven counties. There are numerous quaint villages to explore across the Cotswolds including: Castle Combe, Cirencester, Broadway, Bibury, Kingham, and Stow-on-the Wold. So much to explore, but so little time. Unfortunately, we had to narrow it down to one village as we were taking the train to the Cotswolds. Since Kenz previously stayed at The Lygon Arms in Broadway, we opted to stay in the quaint village of Lower Slaughter for our countryside escape.
Lower and Upper Slaughter, The Cotswolds
Sitting on the River Eye, Lower Slaughter and its twin village, Upper Slaughter, takes its name from old English ‘Slohtre’ which means ‘muddy place.’ These two pretty villages with chocolate box cottages, English rose gardens, and gorgeous manor houses are far from muddy. The Lower and Upper Slaughter are utterly charming and unchanged for over a century. With no tourists amenities, the main draw to the Slaughters is its English country elegance, the epitome of the English countryside. You can see why the Slaughters are often voted as “the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds.”
Walking Tour from Lower to Upper Slaughter
Stamp-sized tiny, you can easily explore the Slaughters on foot in less than a few hours. Entering Lower Slaughter on Copsehill Road from Fosse Way, you can’t miss the elegant 17th-century, The Slaughters Manor House, which was once owned by Sir George Whitmore and his heirs until 1964. Today it is an upscale, luxury country manor hotel, who also operates its sister property across the river, The Slaughter Country Inn. Adjacent to The Slaughters Manor House is the Church of St. Mary with its distinctive 13th-century spire.
Following the gentle River Eye takes you to the Old Mill, a restored flour mill turned to a cafe and museum on the northwest corner of the village. Along the way, there are plenty of photo opportunities of tiny stone bridges, quaint streets, and adorable English cottages. More cottages and country homes adorn Mill Lane and Malthouse Lane all with constructed in the classic Cotswold stone. We walked around the village several times a day in awe of its charming beauty especially against the stunning fall foliage.
From the Old Mill, a little 1-mile footpath follows the River Eye through fields takes you to Upper Slaughter. The village is equally beautiful, but a lot quieter than Lower Slaughter. The cottages flanking the village square were reconstructed by Sir Edward Lutyens, the famous British architect responsible for designing New Delhi. The village is tiny with a historic St. Peter’s Church and one hotel, the opulent Lords of the Manor on the fringe of the village.
The Slaughters Country Inn
The Slaughters Country Inn is the only pub in Lower Slaughter and where we stayed for our short country break. With a toddler and dog in tow, we wanted a more relaxed place as our home-away-from-home. The Caccia cottage is ideal for small families thanks to an upstairs bedroom and a downstair lounge. We had ample space for rest and relaxation after Lady Yeya went to sleep. The accommodations were bright, modern and comfortable with a large bathroom and L’Occitane toiletries. Some rooms in the main house have a roll-top bath with a river view for a perfect couples-only romantic retreat.
The location of Slaughters Country Inn couldn’t be more perfect; right on the River Eye and along Warden’s Way footpath. There is also a large terrace to enjoy a pint whilst soaking up the autumnal sun. The expansive lawn and river is great for kids and dogs to roam around. The staff was friendly and so helpful, bringing Lady Yeya milk every evening after our dinner. A perfect stay in a perfectly quintessential English village.
Bourton-on-the-Water
There are numerous footpaths for the walking enthusiasts dotted all around the Cotswolds. Walking is a great way to explore the quaint little villages whilst enjoying the bucolic landscapes. It’s also great for burning off calories from the scones with strawberry and clotted cream. However, with a toddler who loves sitting in her buggy, we were limited to shorter walks. Luckily, Warden’s Way footpath which connects Lower Slaughter to Bourton-on-the-Water runs right pass The Slaughters Country Inn. The short 1.3 mile leisurely walk takes you through fields and an equestrian centre before arriving at Station Road in Bourton-on-the-Water.
Dubbed as “Venice of the Cotswolds,” Bourton-on-the-Water sits pretty on the River Windrush with six little bridges straddling the river. Like all villages across the Cotswolds, Bourton-on-the-Water is filled with pitched-roof cottages made from the trademark honey-coloured Cotswolds stone. Lining the picturesque riverside are cute little tea rooms, ice cream parlour, antique shops, bakeries, and pubs.
There are also a few family-friendly attractions including the Cotswold Motoring and Toy Museum, Bourton Model Railway Exhibition, and Model Village which is a miniature replica of Bourton-on-the-Water at 1/9th scale. Lady Yeya loved “wandering” around Model Village, “visiting” the Dial House Hotel, The Croft Pub, and St. Lawrence’s Church. The little details down to the grassy lawn, lamp posts, and chestnut trees were truly impressive. Overall, Bourton-on-the-Water is perfect for a leisurely morning of exploring little alleyways and capping it off with a classic pub lunch at one of many riverside eateries.
Our time in one of the most beautiful corners of England was coming to an end. We were sad to leave the genteel charm of the Cotswolds but look forward to future visits for a dose of the gorgeous English countryside. I’d gladly take hotel recommendations for our next visit to the Cotswolds.
