San Sebastian, Spain
Blog,  Life Before Kids,  Travel

Pintxos Hopping in San Sebastian

Seriously what’s not to love about this gorgeous, seaside town of San Sebastian in the Spanish Basque Country? It’s easy-going, fun-loving, and there’s no shortage of beautiful beaches, dramatic coastline, and the food, glorious food here in San Sebastian. In fact, it has the highest concentration of Michelin-rated restaurants. We weren’t so lucky to get reservations but we did what locals do best — sampling pintxos!
 
We kicked off our sunny beach/foodie weekend getaway in Bilbao, home of the iconic Guggenheim Museum designed by California-based architect Frank Gehry, turning this once declining industrial port town into a major cultural centre in Europe. We spent hours marvelling at this modern piece of architecture before heading into the Old Town for our first taste of ‘pintxos’ (Basque-style tapa) and the first of many (far too many) Txakoli , a lightly fizz crisp white wine poured from a distance. Our time in Bilbao was short as we were eager to head to San Sebastian later that evening. 
 
Unfortunately what we envisaged to be a beach trip turned into a major gluttony fest thank to the unpredictable weather but we were able to do a few short walks around this picturesque town and visited both stretches of beach (the surfer beach of Zurriola and people-watching beach of Concha). 
 
 
Kenz and I went pintxos-hopping, visiting over 20 pintxos bar over the span of three days in the Old Town (Parte Veija). I know it sounds like a lot but it’s quite easy to do when you sample two pintxos per bar (at €1 to €4 each) with a refreshing glass of beer or Rioja (€2-4 per glass). It’s amazing how fast time flies when you’re having fun. Bear in mind that these pintxos places are mostly standing room only unless you make reservations in advance.  
 
 
 
I had a list of recommended bars, but I would say any place that’s crowded with local people is fair game, and order off the chalk-board rather than the pintxos on display. My favourite three pintxos bars:
 
A Fuego Nero, Calle 31 de Agosto – The first pintxos bar we tried in San Sebastian recommended by my college roommate and it was a home run. The Wagyu beef burger was divine. Love at first bite. We liked it so much we returned again on our last evening in town. A Fuego Nero focusses on inventive, modern pintxos – all very good and prices are slightly more expensive. It’s crowded with a nice buzzy atmosphere. 
 
Atari Gastroteka, Calle Mayor, 18 – How gorgeous is this place with Bench-clad staff and lovely jazz playing in the background? I could linger here all evening. Again, another inventive, modern place. We had the seared beef with a splash of teriyaki and Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto (braised beef in red wine) was the best we tried. All their pintxos on display looked soooo yummy. 
 
 
Bar Zeruko – Calle Pescaderia, 10 – A light and airy restaurant filled with delectable bite-sized pieces of heaven. Very daring and bold take on traditional pintxos. Hamburguesa de chipiron – interesting dish of minced squid, crouton and a meringue of squid ink with a dash of wasabi. We also tried a number of different bacalao (salted fish).
 
 
Other places we checked out that I can recall from memory:
 
Borda Berri – Calle de Fermin Calbeton, 12 – Their signature dish is the risotto
Txepetxa – Calle Pescaderia, 5 – for anchovy-lovers only — specialises in all things with anchovies
La Cepa – Calle 31 de Agosto, 7 – best known for jamon, jamon, and more jamon. In my opinion, Spanish hams are the best. Sorry for all you prosciutto-lovers.
La Cuchara de San Telmo – Trasera, 28  – this is hard to find as it is off Calle de Agosto on a dead end street. Highly recommended and super-crowded (seriously, elbow to elbow). Kenz enjoyed the Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto – it’s his Basque favourite dish – braised beef cheek in red wine sauce. We also ordered their signature dish Foie con jalea de manzana – seared foie gras which was delicious but slightly too rich for me. 
 
 
Bar Goiz Argi – Calle Fermin Calbeton, 4 – signature dish is the brocheta de gambas – prawn bruschetta smothered in their house sauce. Simply grilled but so tasty.
Tamboril – Calle Pescaderia 2 – old-school pintxos bar with cheap pintxos.
 

Happy eating!